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Return to Kota Bharu and Further Explorations in Peninsular Malaysia and Singapore

Christ Church, MelakaWhereas much of Parameswara's path to Malacca was charted by aggression and flight, the growth of Malacca was based on his ability to negotiate relationships that would make the port a conduit for trade from China to India and places between. He negotiated for China's trade and protection from the threat posed by the Sukothai kingdom with the great Chinese admiral, Cheng Ho. Dutch TombstoneIn marrying a Muslim princess from across the Straits of Malacca in Pasai on Sumatra, he tacitly brokered business from Muslim traders in Southeast Asia. Finally, he increased trade links with India, especially Gujerat. 

The Colonial era of Malacca began when D'Albuquerque led the Portuguese in a successfully attack on Malacca. The port's long, preciptous decline began at this time too. In 1641 the Dutch would take Malacca from the Portuguese. The British quietly took control of Malacca in 1824. What remains of the historical colonial architecture of Malacca dates from the Dutch period with some modifications made under the British.

There is something annoying about a town, city, or country which has lost its importance and monuments to that importance, but not its historical renown. Melaka, as it is now known, is still a quaint city, but it had lost its commercial vitality centuries ago. Today its importance lies primarily with its center as a port for lumber from Indonesia* and as a tourist attraction where architectural reminders of the Dutch colonial period can still be seen (* a sailor aboard one vessel yelled a "hello misterrrr" in distinctive Javanese style). The European colonial period is probably what draws most tourists to modern Melaka. A close second my be the interest generating around the historical presence of ethnic Chinese dating back to the marriage of the Sultan of Malacca to a Chinese Princess several centuries ago. Where else in Southeast Asia can you see a Daoist Temple that is more than 200 years old?

Melaka Gallery

   

Traveling through Malaysia, my attention was drawn to the fact that there were so many ethnic Chinese Malaysians and that they seemed to dominate the life of the larger towns and cities. Still, while you might see Chinese characters on walls, signs, and columns associated with specific businesses, Chinese has been kept separate from the country's wider culture as if it were oil in a pool of water.

It's probably my frustration over the limits of permeating the surface of a foreign country without comprehending the local language that makes me so fascinated with languages and the peculiarities I can discern without being able to communicate more than a simple idea with the locals. Acknowledging my shortcomings first, I would like to share the most obvious of what I did learn about the language spoken in Malaysia, Bahasa Melayu. At the most basic level, adjectives follow nouns and the plural form of a word is often one word repeated. Bahasa Melayu has been perceptibly influenced by historic trade relations, the colonial experience, and the post- colonial experience.

Arabic & Sanskrit

Bahasa Melayu shares some 60,000 words with Bahasa Indonesia. The government of Indonesia classifies Malay as a foreign language. They both share terms from the historical influence of Indian and Arab merchants. The term "Bahasa" is Sanskrit for "language." Both Bahasa Indonesia and Bahasa Melayu share terms like kuliah agama, translated as a sermon, which have origins in Indonesia (kuliah) and Sanskrit (agama). The shared historical influence of Islam brought by Arabs centuries ago has liberally peppered Malay and Indonesian with Arabic terms such as inai (henna, but also used to refer to the practice of newly married couples dying their hands and feet with henna), khutbah (another term for a sermon), and Jumaat (Friday). Arabic has also influenced the names of Malay people. Salim Bin Ya is Arabic for "Salim the son of Ya" while "David A/L Muthu" and "Maziah BT Ya" are linguistically Malay variants of the same having the literal meaning of "David anak (child) lelaki (male) of Muthu" and "Maziah binti (daughter) of Ya." This is as close as you may get to a surname in Muslim Malaysia. Neither David nor Maziah are expected to change any part of their respective names after they marry.

Kulia Agama Kuliah Agama
Kuliah Agama, Kota Bharu 
Portuguese & English

The differences in the way Indonesian and Malaysian are spoken have more recent origins in Western Colonialial era of the Malay Peninsula and islands that now comprise the two states. Kebaya (traditional attire for Malay women) is a term shared by both which was adopted from Portuguese. Dutch words and ways of spelling Indonesian place names distinguish Indonesian from the English colonial past of what is now Malaysia. In Indonesia, we learned that it is fashionable to ask for bottled water by the dominant brand name "Aqua." In Malaysia, the term for bottled water is "mineral." Malaysians have done a phenomenal job of simplifying the spelling of English words: ekspres bas (expres bus), mini foto servis, bas sekolah (school bus), telefon (telephone), fonkads, kompleks (complex), ais krim (ice cream), kolej (college), and taksi (taxi).

At least two English words have their etymological source in colonial Malaya. "Amok" comes from the Malay amuk: to go beserk, run amuck; or to rage violently. Boogeyman originates from the Bugis of Celebes (Sulawesi) whose fierce fighting ability against both the British and Malays in the Straits Settlements had an obviously strong influence on those who returned to the West.

 Modern Bahasa Melayu

Surprisingly, modern Malaysians still have difficulty with spelling some Malay words. Baru is the modern spelling of "new", but the traditional city in the north of Peninsular Malaysia, known as "New City" is spelled "Kota Bharu"; the spelling of the city known as "New Mountain" which is adjacent to Singapore is "Johor Bahru"; and a third city's name is spelled Wakaf Baharu (Wakaf Baharu cannot be translated neatly into English, but has the general meaning of a new place that has been donated for religious or community use).

Sign from Johor Bahur

The absence of Chinese linguistic influence upon Bahasa Melayu reveals something of the historic enmity directed to this one particular foreign group.


Kuala Lumpur. 25 year-old Nor'aishah Bokhari claims that her brother and father along with three unidentified men abducted and took her to an aunt's house in Johor. Once there, her family made her listen to sermons by Islamic teachers everyday and forced her to undergo rituals by witch doctors. Why did they do this? Nor'aishah renounced Islam so that she could marry her Chinese Christian boyfriend. Two policemen are purported to have physically detained Nor'aishah's boyfriend during her kidnapping. Commenting about Nor'aishah's decision to convert to Christianity, an official of the ruling United Malays National Organization in charge of religious issues said, "This issue is serious because it involves the dignity of Islam." A minister in the Prime Minister's Department was reported to have said, "If a woman desires to marry a non-Muslim, she should urge the man to embrace Islam, and not vice-versa."

Nor'aishah escaped and she and her boyfriend went into hiding. In a 20-page complaint filed with the High Court, she stated, "I love my family very much but how can I continue loving them after what they have done to me and my boyfriend...they are hunting us like deer."

Meanwhile, Nor'ashah Bokhari's family has filed kidnapping charges against her boyfriend.
[South China Morning Post, January 27, 1998]


 
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